Berat, Albania is known as the City of 1001 Windows, which, as it turns out, is actually a mistranslation from Albanian to English, but more on that later.
My first foray outside of the Albanian capital of Tirana took me to the ancient city sandwiched between two imposing hills in the central region of the country. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is recognized along with the city of Gjirokaster as outstanding examples of Ottoman-era architecture. It is also highlighted as a prime example of the national belief in coexistence amongst its religious communities. Mosques and Orthodox churches stand within earshot of one another. And towering over it all, the still-inhabited Castle of Berat holds court above the eastern bank of the river Osum.
Introduction to Berat
The historical city is divided into three parts: Gorica (pronounced goh – ree – tsa) to the west of the river, Mangalem to the east, and Kalaja fully contained within the castle walls. Two bridges connect the west to the east, one from 1777 made of stone and a more modern steel span.
Albanians know Berat as the city of “one over one windows” not the “1001 windows” that western tourists misname it. The name comes from the effect that the upward creeping buildings create on the two hillsides that incorporate Berat. The city has been inhabited since at least the 6th century BCE and the castle mainly dates to the 13th century CE.
I would recommend spending 2 to 3 days exploring the town. It takes about 2 hours to drive from the capital Tirana to Berat or about 2.5 hours via minibus. The cost of the minibus is 400 lek ($3.80). Bus transit in Albania is definitely a mixed bag, but I found the Tirana to Berat leg to be easier to navigate than others I took.
NomadTip
The bus terminal in Tirana has changed several times in the past two years. As of September 2021, the correct name/link on Google Maps is Terminali i Autobusave të Jugut dhe Veriut. It is northwest of the center and reachable by several local city buses.
Where to stay
I chose to stay in a hostel in Berat after staying in an AirBnB in Tirana. I was hoping to meet people and be a bit more social once I started moving around the country. While I enjoyed Berat Backpackers, I was one of the only people staying there! Turned out that tourist numbers drop off significantly in September.
In what became a trend everywhere I traveled in Albania, I was told repeatedly that the “season was over”. Why is this restaurant closed? Season is over. It’s still 80F/27C and sunny, why is there no-one here? Season is over. This hostel/hotel is closed – season is over. I think there is a huge missed opportunity in Albania to expand their tourism revenue by pushing the season definition out until the weather starts souring in late October/early November!
But I digress. If you are interested in staying in a hostel, you can’t go wrong with Berat Backpackers. It is rated at 9.6/10 on Hostelworld and is conveniently located in Gorica neighborhood. For midrange, I would recommend Hotel Mangalemi, rated at 9.7/10 on Booking.com. They apparently also have a top class restaurant, but I would recommend reservations as every time I tried to drop by there was a massive wait! And for high end accommodation, the nicest hotel in town is the Hotel Colombo. Newly remodeled and located inside the former University of Berat, the Colombo is very reasonably priced by European standards starting around $90.
NomadReview
Berat Backpackers
What’s Hot
- Privates and dorm room options
- Lots of outdoor seating
- Friendly, helpful staff
- Breakfast is included
What’s Not
- Bathroom was dark and cramped
- A bit of a hike, especially if you have wheeled luggage
What to see
Start your time off in Berat by taking part in the excellent free walking tour. It is offered twice a day at 10am and 2pm. Meet on the Gorica side of the old stone bridge. The guides are informative and passionate about their home town and really helped to orient me to town. I would recommend the evening tour as it ends within the castle walls just as the sun is setting!
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Berat Castle
The hike up to the castle will definitely get your heart rate elevated, but the view is worth it. The area is mostly in ruins, but the cafes and hotels located within the walls are still interesting.
Explore the old neighborhoods
Berat is a very walkable city. Take a stroll through the old neighborhoods of Gorica and Mangalem to get a feel for Berat. I really enjoyed wandering down the labyrinthine pathways with my camera.
Bulevardi Republika
Experience the Albanian tradition of Xhiro – where everyone in a town comes out to stroll the main thoroughfare for the couple hours before sunset. It’s the place to see and be seen in local life.
Where to eat
The top rated restaurant in town was sadly closed for the season like so many others throughout my time in Albania. Apparently Homemade Food Lili is really excellent and reasonably priced, so if it’s open when you visit, be sure to check it out and let me know!
Thankfully I did find other places that were open. Restaurant Friendly House overlooking the Osum River was a nice place to watch the bustle of Berat as the city livened up at night. I had an appetizer, a main, and a drink for 1000 lek ($9.70). Another top pick is Antigone on the opposite side of the river from Friendly House. This place was always packed and has many local dishes on its menu. For lunch, I’d recommend Eni Traditional Food in Gorsica. Their moussaka was phenomenal!
A long weekend in Berat should definitely be on the list for first-time visitors to Albania. It is a stereotypical hillside city that is easily accessible from Tirana. History buffs will not want to miss the ancient castle on the hill above town and foodies will find multiple restaurants serving up local food. If you’ll be visiting Albania for at least a week, make sure to add Berat to your itinerary!
