How to Hike to Koh Tao’s Abandoned Resort at Laem Thian

NomadTrails

Koh Tao's Abandoned Resort

• Koh Tao, Thailand
• 3.03mi / 4.9km
• 1046ft / 319m
• Moderate
• 2 hours
• Trail Map

Data gathered by Nomad Photographer.

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Closest City

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Most people come to Koh Tao for one of two things: diving or partying. But when someone visits me on the island, the first thing I take them to after diving, is a hike. And not just any hike, the trail to Laem Thian, Koh Tao’s abandoned resort that has been slowly swallowed by the jungle for more than a decade.

It’s my favorite non-diving activity on the island and a chance to see what Koh Tao looked like before development, and a reminder that nature always takes things back. This is one of the few places left on the island where you can experience total quiet, healthy reef life, and the thrill of arriving at a forgotten resort that feels half-ruined tropical dream.

I’ve done this hike many times and every time, it delivers something new.

A Short History of Laem Thian’s Abandoned Resort

Laem Thian was once a remote island getaway on Koh Tao’s rarely visited east coast. Just a collection of hilltop bungalows, a small restaurant, and a long concrete walkway descending toward a quiet bay.

For a while, it was idyllic with sunrise views, no crowds, and the sense that you were tucked into the far corner of the island. But running a resort in such a remote spot requires a reliable access road, regular maintenance, and steady tourism. When those things changed, the resort closed. Without upkeep, the jungle took over fast.

Today the bungalows are almost completely consumed by trees and vines with very few walls that remain. The old concrete reception building still stands as a skeletal shell, and the stairway that once guided guests to the sea now has broken sections and missing slabs.

Years ago, this spot was part of a Goodtime Adventures cliff-jumping trip. During my divemaster training with them, we’d hike guests in, then jump from 3, 9, or 12-meter ledges while our speedboat waited in the bay for safety support. Then we would zoom around to a couple more sheltered bays for a great snorkel, before returning to Sairee Beach. It was one of the most iconic adventure days on the island until the tourism crowd changed and demand faded.  

Why Hike to Laem Thian?

Every time I hike here, I’m reminded that Koh Tao is more than dive boats and beach bars. Laem Thian gives you the other side of the island. A quiet beach, a reef with almost no tourist pressure, and a forgotten resort slowly eaten by the forest. It’s adventurous without being extreme, peaceful without being boring, and easy enough that casual hikers can enjoy.

Starting Point: Tarna Resort

The hike starts at Tarna Resort, just above Sairee, and this is where I recommend you begin. Some people try to push their motorbikes higher up the hill, but the road above Tarna gets slippery and unpredictable, especially after rain. It’s not worth the trouble.

Park across the street in the grassy area – leaving the resort parking for their guests. If you’re staying anywhere in Sairee, it’s close enough to walk, it just adds 10-15 minutes to your trip each way. If you’re in Mae Haad or Chalok, save your energy and take a taxi or drive your motorbike to Tarna.

The Hike, Section by Section

The First Few Climbs

That first climb out of Tarna is the steepest part of the whole route. It’s the kind of hill that makes you think twice about your life choices for a minute, but it doesn’t last long. You gain height quickly and hit about 140 meters before the incline fades. From here, the pavement ends and the jungle takes over.

You will start hearing birds and squirrels instead of scooters and construction. The heat builds fast in this stretch, so take your time. Once you reach the ridge at an elevation of 180m, you’ve arrived at the heighest point of the hike.

The Farmers on the Ridge

At the top, you’ll pass a few small farmer huts. These belong to subsistence farmers who live simply and work the land — papayas, pumpkins, pigs, chickens, and even a small goose pond they built a few years ago. They’re friendly, always quick with a wave or a smile.

Their dogs usually keep to themselves. But if you see one that looks like it needs help, make a mental note and let Koh Tao Animal Clinic or Koh Koh Pups dog rescue know once you’re back in Sairee. They look after the island’s animals and appreciate updates from anyone walking the trails.

Into the Dense Jungle

From the huts, the road dips down and becomes a narrower track. This section is where you truly feel the jungle as it wraps around you.

This next stretch includes a sandy washout from a major monsoon storm years ago — I always use it as a landmark to find where the wild cashew trees grow. If you look down, you might see their gray shells scattered across the path or the occasional red cashew “apple” that the nut grows from. They’re fun to spot, but don’t handle them directly unless you know what you’re doing — cashew oil can irritate skin.

The first glimpses of the sea appear not long after this bit, and that always gives me a boost. The air changes as you get closer to the east coast. You’ll pass the turn off to Aow Mao on your left, keep going straight ahead.

Arriving at Laem Thian

The first thing you see when the trail finally drops toward the coast is the remains of the old bungalows. The jungle has eaten almost everything — roofs collapsed, walls half buried, balconies wrapped in vines. It’s one of those scenes that looks dramatic yet strangely peaceful, like nature is quietly taking back what it’s owed.

A little further on, a larger concrete building comes into view. This used to be the reception area, and from here the path hooks sharply left and descends toward the water. The staircase has a few big gaps, so watch your footing.

Down by the water, the old restaurant building sits right above the rocks. This is my favorite spot to take in the view — you can climb up to the roof (carefully) and look back at the cliffs or out over the bright curve of Laem Thian Bay. It’s beautiful in a way that feels uncurated and unpolished, the kind of beauty you don’t get in the west coast’s developed areas.

Snorkeling at Laem Thian

The snorkeling here is one of the highlights of the whole trip. The bay is usually calm and the water is clear, with far fewer people than the west coast sites. Most days, it’s just you, the reef, and the sound of the lightly crashing waves.

I’ve seen plenty of the usual Koh Tao marine life here — damsels, wrasses, butterflyfish — but the best part is the quiet. There’s something special about snorkeling a healthy patch of reef with no boats around and splashing around next to you.

Once, I came face-to-face with an adult blacktip reef shark. They’re harmless, graceful, and common on this side of the island, but meeting one in perfectly still water stays with you.

If you’re into photography, mornings are the time to shoot. The colors pop, the shadows aren’t too harsh, and the bay feels even more untouched. If it’s overcast or windy, the water can feel cool, but you’ll be sweaty enough from the hike that jumping in always is such a relief.

Hiking Back Out

Hiking to Laem Thian is one of those rare Koh Tao experiences that feels both adventurous and surprisingly easy. The trail is straightforward once you know where to start, the jungle is quiet and humid, and the payoff at the abandoned resort is always worth the effort.

After a swim or snorkel in the bay, all that’s left is to retrace your steps back toward Tarna Resort. This isn’t a loop or a through-hike — you return the same way you came in. I’ve done the hike several ways, sometimes as a relaxed morning walk, sometimes as a quick trail run where I jog the flats and downhills and hike the climbs, and it never loses its appeal.

If you want to see a quieter side of Koh Tao, untouched by the west-coast crowds, Laem Thian remains one of the island’s best half-day adventures.

What to Pack for the Laem Thian Hike

Hiking to Laem Thian isn’t complicated, but it is completely unsupported once you leave the Tarna Resort area. There’s no water, no food, no shops, and almost no cell service past the first stretch of trail.  

Bring what you need – assume nothing is available on the other side. Here’s what I always carry:

• Water
• Snacks
• Sun protection
• Mosquito spray
• Swim gear
• Snorkel equipment
• Proper footwear
• Your trail map (download our map)

If you want to see exactly what I carry on hikes like this, I’ve put a curated list of my Koh Tao snorkel essentials on my Amazon Creator page.

Frequently Asked Questions