The Lanterns of Jiufen, Taiwan

When I decided on visiting Taiwan last year, it was an extended layover between Bali and Japan. My partner had flown ahead to Japan to spend a girl’s week with her best friend who lives in Tokyo, so I had a short window to do some exploring on my own.

Taiwan was my choice mainly because her passport does not allow her to visit without arranging a visa ahead of time. Everything else in the region we could see together, so it would have to wait until our next joint adventure. 

So I decided a little exploratory intro trip for 6 days was at hand. Oftentimes I research the heck out of a place before arriving, but every once in awhile I just wing it. And Taiwan was mostly that. I had planned to spend all 6 nights in Taipei, but last minute I stumbled on Jiufen which was described as a must-see mountain town nearby. 

This ancient gold mining town had become a tourist attraction in the 1990’s especially since it became associated with legendary Japanese director Miyazaki. (Incorrectly, as the director himself, has denied that Jiufen’s quaint streets inspired Oscar-winning Spirited Away!) 

So I canceled my hotel in Taipei, and rebooked 2 nights in a hostel at Old Street Seaview Homestay in Jiufen to find quality time in a place I’d read is mostly seen as a day trip. 

Jiufen is easy to reach from Taipei. The most direct and cost efficient way is to take the 965 Taiwan Tourist shuttle bus from Beimen Station direct to Jiufen. As of 2025, the trip takes about an 1 hour and 20 minutes and costs NT$90 (USD$3). Alternatively you can take the local train #4026 from Taipei Main Station to Rueifang Station. Then take the 1062 bus from there to Jiufen. This route is slightly faster at about an hour for NT$98 (USD$3.20). One item of note is be sure to get off at the third bus stop in Jiufen if you plan to stay where I did, otherwise you have a long uphill climb!

The main things to see and do in Jiufen are visit the incredible Jiufen Qingyun temple, drink tea at the 100-year-old tea houses such as Jiufen Teahouse, and explore the winding bazaar of Jiufen Old Street with its lantern-lined stairways. 

This photo was captured late in the day, after most tourist buses had departed. I used a shallow depth of field to draw the eye in and up this steep staircase, many of which dot the mountain town. It had been a dreary day, but I think it added to the overall vibe of the photo. I went out with only my Sony 50mm f/1.4 to really force myself to be considerate of the limitations and strengths of this lens – something I often find sparks more intentional photography.