Introduction
Phrases like “The Queen of the Caribbean Coast”, “exploding with creative energy”, “a must-visit”, and countless more grace the pages of travel magazines the world over about the city of Cartagena de Indias on the northern Caribbean coast of Colombia. Founded in 1533, the city was a strategic port of the Spanish Empire. Colorful streets, impressive fortifications, and well-maintained historic buildings feature throughout the UNESCO World Heritage Old Town. I spent a whirlwind three days here in mid April and loved every moment. Read on for my recommendations on how to spend the perfect weekend in Cartagena!
Cartagena Travel Tips
Is this your first time visiting Cartagena de Indias? Here are my top tips to have a great long weekend in this vibrant city.
You can drink the water, but I recommend filtering — In my month in Colombia, I heard that the water is safe to drink in many places, but one that got mixed reviews was Cartagena. A bit of internet research told me all was fine, but once there, my hotel told me not to! In cases such as this, I use the Lifestraw Go Filter Bottle. It has a replaceable filter built in to the straw that can filter 1000 gallons (4000 liters) of water before it needs replacing!
Wear white or loose fitting clothing — It’s hot in Cartagena. REAL hot. I grew up in Florida, lived in Thailand for four years, and still think Cartagena is hot. So take that as a warning! You’ll see many people wearing all white linen attire – often whole families out for a stroll in matching white.
Sunscreen — I imagine it goes without saying, but wear sunscreen! The city lacks in shade cover and was very sunny the entirety of my visit. Just be sure to use a eco-friendly sunscreen, I use and recommend Blue Lizard Sport.
Bug Spray — This is the Caribbean after all and mosquitos can be everywhere depending on the season. I am blessed with having a secret super power in that mosquitoes pay me no attention while absolutely devouring my travel friends. Unless you are like me, do yourself a favor and remember to apply bug spray before stepping out on the town!
Where to Stay
Hostel: Life is Good Hostel — The hostel is among the highest rated in town and situated perfectly at the edge of the Getsemani neighborhood and close to the entrance to the Old Town. Top features include a big rooftop with double jacuzzis, awesome staff, and free breakfast. It is not the cheapest hostel in town, but in Cartagena, you really get what you pay for.
Mid Range: Getsemani Cartagena Hotel — Located very close to the activities featured on Day 3. Solid hotel with moderately sized basic rooms. It is highly rated compared to others in the mid range price points. I did not stay here, but have had it recommended to me.
High End: Sofitel Legend Santa Clara Cartagena — The courtyard garden at the Sofitel is a hidden oasis in the city. Built in a converted 17th century convent, the five star hotel is one of the nicest in Cartagena. You can’t go wrong here if you are looking for a high-end hotel option. Other features include two restaurants, three bars, a pool, fitness center, and a spa. Even if you are not a guest here it is worth coming to see the garden and have a late afternoon siesta at the garden restaurant.
Day 1: Get Your Bearings
After checking in to your hotel, head to the Monumento Torre de Reloj. This clock tower perched over the central gate into the old town dates to the 1800s and is a popular meeting point for tours and friends. Just outside the city walls, look for the fenced in garden known as Parque del Centenario. While not the most beautiful city park, it easily makes up for the creatures found within. Be sure to look up to search for chilled out sloths and furry tamarin monkeys, and along the paths for large iguanas.
Return to the city gates and pass under the archway and through the small plaza. directly ahead you will see an arcade, or series of archways fronting various shops. Escape the sun and heat and walk along this corridor which is known as the Portal de Los Dulces. This corridor is filled with seemingly identical stalls all selling various typical sweets from the region. I’d recommend Cocada de Coco which consist of coconut, cinnamon, coconut water, milk, and sugar and look kind of like shredded coconut cookies.
Spend the rest of your afternoon wandering lazily through the central and southern end of old town. (Day 2 covers the northern section and Getsemani.) Highlights in the downtown core include the impressive Santuario de San Pedro Claver, the city wall at Baluarte de Santo Domingo, and Plaza de Santo Domingo with its Botero sculpture “La Gorda Gertrudis”.
Escape from the late afternoon heat and visit one of the world’s best bars in the process! Split over three floors of a colonial-era mansion, Alquimico is known for sourcing local ingredients from their nearby farm including organic fruits, herbs, sugarcane and speciality coffee. Open since 2016, the bar is a feast for the senses and a worthy stop before dinner.
Finish you big first day at local seafood favorite La Mulata. This Caribbean restaurant has been serving quality food since opening its doors in 2004. The restaurant is small but lively and offers up good portions. If they have it, sea bass is excellent here or whatever the special of the day happens to be!
Day 2: Old Town and the Nightlife
In the morning, grab breakfast at your hotel and gather your walking shoes, sunscreen, bug spray, and camera because you’ll be out exploring all day! Build on your wayfinding from yesterday by heading to the clock tower and pass through the gate underneath to enter the Old Town.
This time we’ll stick to the northern section of town centering on the many plazas and hidden gems. Turn right on to Carrera 6 and pass by Alquimico again, pausing on the corner with Calle 36 to take in the delectable smell of cheese bread from La Esquina del Pandebono. If you need a little snack, grab a pandebono for 2500cop (USD $0.63) each. This Colombian cheese bread is made with cornmeal cheese, tapioca, and love!
Moving on, continue north until you reach Carrera 2 and the city walls overlooking the Caribbean Sea. Turn right and one block onward on your right you’ll see a large imposing brown adobe building – the home of Gabriel Garcia Marquez. Known affectionately as Gabo, he was arguably one of the most significant writers of the 20th century and one of the most celebrated Spanish language authors of all time. His home is, sadly, not open to the public but it makes for an interesting point of reference nevertheless.
Walk one more block, taking a right on Carrera 8, looking for the garden entrance to the stately Sofitel Legend Santa Clara Cartagena half a block down on the right hand side. My pick for best high-end hotel in town, non-guests are still welcome to stroll around the public places and eat in the two onsite restaurants. Be sure to marvel at the expertly manicured garden in this converted 17th century convent!
By now you are surely hungry and I would suggest you make your way to Restaurante Espiritu Santo for a hearty meal. This spot, popular with tourists and Cartagenians alike, serves up massive portions for cheap. Prices range from 14500cop (USD $3.68) to 28000cop (USD $7.10) for main courses!
After lunch, head back to your hotel to chill, digest, and escape the hottest part of the day. As dusk approaches, grab you camera and participate in the daily ritual of finding the best sunset views from Old Town. Many people flock to the city walls encircling old town, especially near Cafe Del Mar which is great for the view, but skip eating here, it’s pricey and just mediocre.
After sunset, get ready to party. First head to Plaza de la Trinidad, the center of street food culture in Cartagena. This small plaza begins to fill with people, food vendors, and music as the sky darkens. Be quick though as the lines can get absolutely massive as the night goes on. My top pick would have to be Hamburguesas Gabriel who serve up absolutely massive burgers for just 9000cop (USD $2.28)!
If you are looking for live music, you can’t go wrong with Tertulia de Getsemaní. This venue hosts up to 4 bands a night ranging from salsa, rumba, to champeta and features captivating interior walls bedecked in vinyl records. On the night I visited, the cover charge was 40,000cop (USD $10.15) which I feel was more than fair for the 3+ hours I spent listening to great live music.
And after live music (or instead of, I suppose!) visit Seven 7 Times right next door. The confusingly named club just opened in January 2022, but it is already a top spot in the city. Boasting 5 different theme dance areas including a cabaret burlesque show, the nightclub has something for everyone. I had a blast there with my big group of friends and it was good fun trying out my gringo dance moves – ha!
Day 3: Castillo and Getsemani
After last night you can be forgiven for being a little slow moving today. But once you are, reward yourself with a unique breakfast at Beiyu, a local Cartagena restaurant specializing in slow-food and fair trade dishes. Don’t miss the namesake beiyu, a cassava flour flatbread topped with various ingredients. The service can be quite slow, but the wait is worth it.
After your meal, it is time to visit the Castillo of Cartagena, just a 10 minute walk east from Beiyu. Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas was built in 1536, and has been the site of numerous bombardments and raids on the city. Entry fee is 27,000cop (USD $6.85). Allow 2 hours to see everything.
Return to our favorite spot, the clock tower of Old Town to meet up with the 4pm Free Walking Tour of Getsemani by Beyond Colombia. Meeting just east of the tower at the Camellón de los Mártires statue, this tour uncovers the fascinating history of the Getsemaní neighborhood since 1572 through its food, music, culture, and language. This is a must-not miss!
Finish your night at Arrabal GastroBar in Getsemaní. Recommended by my tour guide, serving Colombian fusion, seafood, and fine cocktails.
Extend your trip
Did you cover all the above and find you still had extra time? Or are you staying a few extra days? Then try one of the following to continue enjoying the area:
Day trip to Rosario Islands — an archipelago of coral fringed white sand islands about 100km from Cartagena. If you were bummed by the lack of gorgeous beaches in the city, this is where you need to visit. Reach them via speed boat or group tours organized from the port of Cartagena.
Bazurto Market — Gritty, crowded, fragrant (and not always in the nicest way), the market is real Cartagena. I’ve said it often on this site, but visiting where the locals shop for food will give you the best introduction to a culture and as Cartagena’s major market, Bazurto is that place.
Convento La Popa — Visible from nearly everywhere in Cartagena, the 17th century Convent perched on Mount Popa, is the most important religious site in the city. Offering spectacular views of the city, visit the location to learn about the role of the Catholic Church in the development of Cartagena.
Conclusion
Cartagena was the highlight of my whirlwind 3.5 week tour of Colombia. I’m partial to coastal locales, but I think the food, culture, music, and history scene can be exciting and fulfilling for most travelers. The city regularly sees flight deals from Canada and the United States, and is a must for anyone who finds themselves in Colombia. Have you been to Cartagena? What were your favorite parts?
