This article is part of my NomadTrails series which are trail reports of hike, walks, and runs I have done on my travels will include the details that matter most, my favorite images, and stories from my adventures.
When I envisioned my trip to Greece, I dreamt of pearly white sand beaches lapped by aquamarine waters. I would be sitting beachside of a white-walled and blue-roofed villa eating grape leaf wrapped dates and fresh cooked seafood, not sweating up ancient cowpaths getting odd looks from farmers toiling in their volcanic rock strewn fields.
NomadTrails
I came to Sifnos island for a different reason than the idyllic images I had conjured up before my trip to Greece. When researching off-the-beaten-path islands while still in Albania, I came across an article about the tiny Cycladic island and its reputation as a foodie haven. Within I found out about its extensive network of trails (and delectable food!) and I knew I had to visit.
Origins of the trail project
The municipality of Sifnos has had ancient stone paths crisscrossing its rough shores since at least the 3rd millenia BCE. They were created to support the agricultural way of life and to move livestock around the island. In 2015, the municipality partnered with The Paths of Greece, a non-profit aimed at making Greece one of the top hiking destinations in the world.
As a result of the project, the trails on Sifnos are well-maintained, signposted, and have extensive and thorough maps available online and in person. There are 19 named trails, each with deviations and shorter sections that can be enjoyed without having to do the full length. In total there are over 200km (125mi) of maintained trails across the island!
My favorite trails
While there are many trails, the type of terrain covered and sights experienced vary wildly. Much of the island sits high above the sea topped by rolling hills and mountains. The coastal area is fringed by steep cliffs and the occasional small beach. The terrain consists of low grass and shrubs save for some pine forests in the northern and western regions. In spring, wildflowers will line the paths as you move from village to monastery to coast.
I would recommend visiting in April to June or September to October as the temperatures will be mild and humidity will be low. The island virtually shuts down from November to March, so I’d say avoid visiting then.
If you only have a short while on Sifnos, the following trails are two that should not be missed and will give you a good overview of traversing the island. I ran both of these and would highly recommend them as either a running or hiking excursion during your visit.
Trail #6: Sifnos Insiders – 5mi/8km distance – 1140ft/347m elevation gain – 60 minutes
Trail #6: Sifnos Insiders is the best all around trail on the island. It also happens to be the longest at a leg-melting 15km (9.32mi) loop. But the beauty of the trail network there, is the many side branches or out-and-backs that can be enjoyed without having to commit to the full trail.
The trail begins in Apollonia, the capital of the island, found in the geographic center. As it heads south, the trail passes traditional homes then crosses the main thoroughfare and leaves civilization behind. Backyards are replaced by olive groves and dry stone walls follow the trail as it snakes its way into the highlands.
Just a bit past the 1.6km/1mi mark, the trail splits. To the left is Trail #6B to Profitis Ilias Monastery, the highest point on the island at an elevation of 682m/2237ft. It is apparently quite the slog, but gives unrivaled 360 degree views. I continued left along the main trail. A bit farther on, you will pass the Taxiarchis Skafis monastery on your right. Take a moment to visit and have a look around.
Continue along the trail until you meet the junction of Trail #5 and #6. I took the opportunity to take the path south to get a view to the west and the islands beyond. If you stay with the main Sifnos Insiders path, the route heads northwest from here before looping around the base of Apidia Peak and meeting the trailhead in Apollonia.
After splitting off from Sifnos Insiders, I joined the Hidden Sides of Sifnos path for 800m/0.5mi more until I reached the Panagia tou Niliou church. From the pristine balcony of the church, you will see the distant islands of Kimolos, Antimilos, and Milos. I was told on perfect days, you can even see the distant peaks of Sparta. After resting and enjoying the view, return the way you came all the way back to Apollonia.
Trail #2: Towards the Miraculous Saint – 4.3mi/6.9km distance – 1010ft/308m elevation gain – 52 minutes
For a shorter, but no less scenic trail, check out Trail #2: Towards the Miraculous Saint. Start either in the walled village of Kastros or in the seaside town of Faros. I personally started on at the latter, so my directions will describe the route heading north.
Park in any of the free lots near the sea and make the short walk down to the stunning Holy Monastery of Chrysopigi perched out on the point south of town. The church, built in 1523, is the most important and most visited temple on the island. After, head back the way you came passing through Faros once more following the wide stone path as it switchbacks up the hillside. You’ll gain 160m (520ft) in just 1.1km (.7mi) and will appreciate taking the occasional rest to enjoy the views over the southern coast of Sifnos.
As the trail levels off, cross the main road and look for the trail continuation just off to the left/west. About 800 meters beyond the road, there is a short side path down to the chapel of Agios Ioannis Siderou. Legend has it that the name comes from St. John who performed a miracle to protect locals from pirates, when he turned the wooden doors of the temple into iron ones.
Return to the main trail and continue north until you crest a ridge and can view the fortified Kastros and the Chapel of the Seven Martyrs. At this point you can either continue the rest of the way to Kastros where you can catch a bus back to your car in Faros or elsewhere on the island or you can do what I did and double back to Faros via the trail.
An outdoor enthusiast’s paradise
As an active traveler, Sifnos was a wonderful find. It was not originally on my itinerary and was not among the scores of other islands I had read about in magazine and blog articles. Some of my fondest travel memories have come from these kinds of unexpected discoveries, and Sifnos will rank alongside them. If you enjoy hiking, walking, or running outdoors and you find yourself in Greece, be sure to not miss this spectacular place!
Have you ever visited the island of Sifnos? Where have you enjoyed hiking or running on your travels?
