Introduction
Albania is a country that before visiting I could honestly say I had never given much thought to. I knew it was in Europe and generally over near Greece and that it used to be Communist, but that was about it. When I told people I was thinking of going there, many expressed concern about whether it was even safe! Well I can report back that it is a wonderful country, filled with amiable people, stunning vistas, interesting foods, and an incredibly rich and complicated history.
What to See
While Albania is a small country, much of its sites are spread out along the length of the country which sits generally in a northwest to southeast orientation. The capital Tirana is situated in the northwest and farther north and west from there is a mountainous region celebrated for its natural beauty and hiking trails. I would suggest starting in the capital then traveling to the north if you enjoy the outdoors. I didn’t make it up there on my first visit, but hope to when I return.
From there, head to Berat to the southeast of Tirana. Then visit Gjirokaster before heading to the coast at Sarandë. If you finish your Albanian trip there, you can easily take a fast ferry across the narrow strait to Corfu for further travels or to use the international airport there.
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Tirana
The Capital City
My trip to Tirana surprised me in all the right ways. I had good meals, visited great museums, and was able to easily explore the city on foot. It is a great introduction to the country. Start here.
Berat
A window on Albania
Albanians know Berat as the city of “one over one windows”. The name comes from the effect that the upward creeping buildings create on the two hillsides that incorporate Berat.
Gjirokaster
The Stone City
Gjirokaster is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its unique architecture and culture. The citadel that looms large over town and is a must-visit spot!
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When to Visit
I visited Albania in September and found the weather to be generally mild and clear. It was still shorts and t-shirt weather in the capital of Tirana and on the coast in Sarandë. At nights in the inland cities of Berat and Gjirokaster, I was most comfortable with a light long sleeve and pants.
August is the hottest month in the country and apparently the heat can be oppressive. It is also the peak of their tourist season, but it pales in comparison to the hoards of tourists that visit nearby Croatia or Greece.
I was surprised to find that by mid September, many restaurants and hotels had started to close because in their own words, the season was over. Even as the sun continued to shine and the weather reached 30C/85F, tourist spots shut their doors. Seems like a missed opportunity to create a proper should season, so keep that in mind.
I would suggest April to June or September as the best time to visit to skip the hot summers and bitter winters while also ensuring sites are still open!
Costs
Albania is the place to be if you want a European vibe without a European budget! I regularly did a double take when perusing restaurant menus. Meals that in Greece cost me $15 or more, often cost half that in Albania. I paid on average $6 for lunch and $9 for dinners.
For accommodation, many cities are small and walkable. City buses in Tirana cost $0.30 – $0.40 per trip. And transport between cities was very reasonable for the distance covered. I paid $4 for Tirana to Berat, $9 for Berat to Gjirokaster, and $5 for Gjirokaster to Sarandë. One weekend I shared a rental car with friends and including gas we paid $15 a day per person split 3 ways.
My biggest expense as always was accommodation which can really rack up when traveling solo. That said, Albania is definitely on the cheaper side in Europe.