Introduction
I’m writing this recap from the cool mountain air of Salento, Colombia that will definitely deserve it’s own post. April has been another whirlwind of quick moves which means I continue to be behind on writing. March was much of the same as I started the month in Panama just after my birthday before completely reworking my schedule after experiencing internet-connectivity and co-working issues with the hotel chain I had been staying with. I spent just over a week in Panama City before returning to my favorite spot in Costa Rica, the quaint town of La Fortuna.
Bocas del Toro Continued
As mentioned in my previous recap for February 2022, I arrived in Bocas del Toro at the end of February to find a party and seaside location to celebrate my birthday. While I did find the latter, the former was on hold while Panama restricted Carnival celebrations in light of Covid.
Since I would not be partying much over my birthday weekend, I decided instead to get some diving in. There were a couple dive shops that had been recommended to me, so I scheduled diving with both. First up was La Buga. While I had a pleasant time, the water was on the colder side for a short 3mm wetsuit at 26C (78F). The water was pretty murky as well, but we still saw some nice fish and a couple shipwrecks.
The next day, I headed out with a higher-end company called Bocas Dive Center. And while they went to the exact same sites, we explored additional areas and saw a ton more than the day before – the highlight being a 2.5m nurse shark! If you make it to Bocas, check these guys out, much more professional, safety-oriented, and knowledgeable guides!
Coliving and working complications
Throughout my time in Costa Rica in February, I was staying with a hotel/hostel chain called Selina. They have over 80 locations around the world, mainly centered around Latin America where they got their start. The brand is middle to high-end shared and private accommodation with a focus on activities and remote working. Traveling in Central America can be challenging if you are trying to work from the road as internet is spotty and speeds can be glacial.
The Selina brand has become synonymous with quality accommodation, unique experiences, and creative remote working spaces. A few years ago they introduced their CoLive nomadic lifestyle subscription service. The month-to-month service includes accommodation, access to the coworking spaces at each location, discounts on tours and food, wellness classes, and exclusive online community spaces. I need to do a full review as I definitely have some thoughts, but overall my opinion of the company is generally positive.
That said, their operation in Panama needs some serious work if they plan to continue to recruit nomadic workers. I signed up to start my first month on CoLive in the Red Frog, Bocas del Toro location on the 2nd of March, spend a week there then transfer to Venao on the Pacific coast for a week, before finishing with two weeks in Panama City.
BUUUTTT, my month was nothing like that. First off, the Red Frog location had no water for 4 days so I stayed on Isla Colon for several extra days. Once I got there, I found out there were only transfers to Venao twice a week – Mondays and Thursdays. The latter is a non-starter for me as that day is filled with regular weekly meetings with my design studio. And Monday was the day after I finally made it to Red Frog. Then I found out the Venao River location was brand new and had been having days-long internet outages. That wouldn’t work! Then I received an email from the Panama City location saying their coworking space had been closed all of February and potentially all of March for a remodel!! @#%$!!
All of this would have been super helpful to hear from the booking agent when I first signed up! I wrote a tersely worded email to my assigned Selina team member expressing my displeasure and asking for a solution and then heard nothing for FOUR days. Not the best customer service for their supposed top customers.
All that said, I ended up extending in Red Frog as I loved it there. The team was so kind, and General Manager Vera runs a great little resort. Most of the time I enjoyed the individual Selinas I visited, but I really feel the online support needs work. Eventually I heard back, and they offered to rearrange my plans to cut Venao entirely, shorten my time in Panama City, and transfer me back to Costa Rica and my favorite location in La Fortuna.
Panama City
After my booking woes were solved, I had a lovely 10 days in Red Frog on Bastimentos Island. But having been fairly remote and in small towns since December, I was eager to get to Panama City, a city of 475,000 people. I stayed at the Selina Casco Viejo which is found in the old historic district of the same name on the southern side of the modern city. The current city was founded in 1673 after the original location was abandoned following sackings by pirates. Much of the original city walls still exist and the area is undergoing extensive renovations and gentrifications.
In the late 19th century, the French began an effort to build a canal connecting the Pacific to the Atlantic and based their endeavor in the old town of Panama City. As such, much of the best preserved buildings feature French balconies and other architectural embellishments. Beyond Casco Viejo, other regions of the city are less geared toward tourism. I did do some exploring along the waterfront with the Cinta Costera bridge/walking path that passes out over the shallow bay providing a traffic bypass of the old town.
The rest of my week in the city consisted of eating a wide variety of food from fancy meals in the old town to super fresh seafood from the largest fish market in Central America. I enjoyed my time, but one week was probably a bit too much time to spend in the city. But if there is only one thing you do when visiting Panama City, then you must visit the Canal!
I took an Uber (they are everywhere and by far the cheapest and safest way to get around the city) the 25 minutes northwest out of the Old Town to the Miraflores Locks Visitor Center. The tour is sadly restricted given Covid measures and the well-regarded museum is closed to the public. Even though the exhibits are roped off, the viewing decks are well worth the trek. I stood on the platform and watched epic vessel after vessel make the slow trek from the level of Baton Lake to the Pacific Ocean. When I first arrived the Panamax car carrier in the photo above was the most impressive ship I saw. Panamax refers to the maximum width a ship can be and still squeeze through the locks! The visit costs $10 and I’d say allow 1 to 2 hours.
A Return to La Fortuna
After my scheduling and coworking troubles in Panama, I was so grateful to return to my happy place of La Fortuna, Costa Rica. I was already planning on coming back there as I had a couple weeks before I was to meet a friend in Colombia and I wanted to revisit some places and see new friends again. After the Selina team, suggested I transfer the rest of my month to La Fortuna, I jumped at the opportunity.
The staff at this Selina are the best I’ve encountered of the 7 in the chain. Carolina, the events coordinator, Laura and Aaron at reception, Gustavo and Fernando at the bar, and all the rest of the staff are so kind, helpful, and genuinely great people. Then the location is tucked in the forest and I can sit at a bar seat, working on my laptop as toucans, mot mots, and hummingbirds flit about in front of me.
The town itself is calm and the people friendly. And unlike much of the country, the best things to do in the area are actually free. I spent a wonderful week back there, hiking to hidden waterfalls, jumping from rope swings, bathing in the hot spring river and spending lovely quality time with friends.
At the very end of the month, my CoLive package complete, I headed to the coastal town of Sámara which I hadn’t been to on my prior visit in February. More on that in the April recap!
Where I’ve Been
COUNTRIES VISITED: 2
Panama, Costa Rica
CITIES VISITED: 5
Bocas Town, Red Frog, Panama City, La Fortuna, Sámara
Where I’m Going
I am very excited to be traveling in my first country in South America in over 20 years! It’s crazy to think I was just a wee 16 years old when I first visited the continent when I spent a summer in Paraguay on a public health project. This time I will be in Colombia to meet up with a friend to explore and go scuba diving. She will be on her spring break so we’ll be jetting all over at a much faster pace than I am accustomed to. Then I have 10 days solo to explore before I head back to my family’s house in Florida at the beginning of May.
